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Four hours from Cuzco, in the town of Paucartambo, thousands of devotees
hold festivals in honor of the Virgen del Carmen, known locally as Mamacha
Carmen, patron saint of the mestizo population. The gathering, that raises
the curtain on these days of celebrations is held in the main square,
where troupes of musicians play their instruments while richly dressed
choirs sing in Quechua. The setting gives way to a series of ingenious
choreographies that portray events in Peruvian history.
For five days, dance companies in various costumes (Doctorcitos, Waca
Waca, Sarjas) take to the streets to accompany the Mamacha throughout
the entire procession through the main square, the church and the city
streets. On the main day, the virgin is borne aloft in a procession to
bless those present and scare away demons. The dancers take to the housetops,
performing daring gymnastics, showing off their colorful Inca and colonial
garb. At the end of the procession, war is waged on the demons, from
which the faithful emerge in triumph. Finally, the gathering ends up
in the cemetery to render homage to the souls of the dead.
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